Clothing and Fashion

Though often used interchangeably, there are distinct and important differences between clothing, fashion, and style. The term clothing first appeared in the thirteenth century and refers to garments in general. Fashion and style are fourteenth-century words. Style describes the form of something, while fashion refers to prevailing styles during a particular time. All clothing can be described in terms of the style of specific features, such as a mandarin collar or a gathered sleeve, and if the style is currently popular, it is considered fashionable. Garment styles periodically recur, though usually in slightly different forms. Coco Chanel, the famous French designer, once said that anyone who claimed originality had no knowledge of history.
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The Colonies

Colonization of America began in the late 1500s with the Spanish in Florida, followed by the French in Acadia and the English in Jamestown, Virginia, and Massachusetts. The Dutch, Swedes, and Germans would have settlements by 1683. All of these groups brought their native garb with them. As in Europe, clothing for the wealthy was elaborate and made of fine fabrics. Men set the fashions, and women and children followed them. Humbler folk wore less complicated clothing of a more serviceable nature. The colonies were not meant to be self-supporting and were seen as a good source of exports from the mother countries. Attitudes toward attire would develop largely based on whether an area was settled by adventurers or those seeking religious freedom. Clothing was important and often passed on from one generation to the next upon death. Few garments survived in their original form, having been recut to fit a different figure or to reflect a newer fashion.

As they became established, wealthy southern planters tended to keep up with court fashions by importing clothes made in England. Their wives and daughters wore silk, velvet, brocade, and satin gowns when in town. Clothing on the plantations was more utilitarian, with men wearing working clothes of breeches and jerkins made of canvas or a rough fabric called frieze, coarse wool hose, and leather shoes, and women wearing simple gowns over homespun petticoats and usually an apron. Masters clothed their laborers and servants. Some planters maintained a store onsite with various goods, while others relied on itinerant peddlers for fashion news, supplies, and gossip.

Sumptuary laws were enacted mid-seventeenth century in Massachusetts by conservative Pilgrims who felt that too much money was being spent on clothing. They tried to regulate the length and width of sleeves, as well as prohibiting the use of silk (except for hoods or scarves), silver, gold, lace, and ribbons of gold or silver. Goods in defiance were confiscated and exported. Officials thought a person's clothing should accurately reflect their social prestige and rank, and they put many violators of the sumptuary laws on trial. It was possible, however, to have charges dropped if one could prove sufficient financial status.

By the late seventeenth century, William and Mary were on the English throne. Relations with the colonies were good and nearly every ship brought luxuries. Fashion was less than a year behind England. Dolls dressed in the latest styles arrived in London from Paris once a month, and were regularly sent on to America where dressmakers would create interpretations for colonial women. Children were dressed in styles very similar to their parents.

Not all people followed trends, however. Though financially sound, the Quakers recommended their members abstain from rich colors and use soft gray, dull drab, sage greens, and somber browns. They made their clothes the same shapes as court clothes, minus the showy trims, and used beautiful and costly cloth.

The first half of the eighteenth century was prosperous and comfortable. Fashion was conspicuous among the rich, with merchant ships from China and the Indies supplying silk, tissues, and embroidered gauzes. Small patches were worn not only as beauty marks, but also as a sign of political sway: a patch on the left side of the face supported the Whigs, while the right side indicated a Tory. Fans were an important accessory as well, enabling an elaborate method of nonverbal communication.

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The History of Chinese Clothing

Each dynasty in China had its own memorable culture. The many facets of colour and design that emerged during a dynasty’s reign were marvellous and made every aspect of Chinese culture, including their wearing apparel, - highly acclaimed works of art.

The costumes of ancient China were emblems of Chinese tradition, as well as an essential element in the history and culture of each dynasty. Costume maintained an important place in Chinese culture for more than three thousand years. The culture of China is ancient and well established, brilliant and resplendent. The costumes are likewise magnificent and colourful. There were many dynasties throughout China’s history, each having its own unique style of dress. And each style would change or disappear as its dynasty changed, declined, or was replaced. With the advent of each new dynasty and the progression of time, costumes were revolutionised. The style was classical and conservative in the Qin and Han dynasties, luxurious and glamorous in the Tang dynasty, delicate and exquisite in the Song dynasty, graceful and magnificent in the Ming dynasty, and very intricate in the Qing dynasty. Stylised costumes first appeared in the Yellow Emperor, Yao and Shun periods. Chinese characters were invented during the ancient Yin Shang period. Although eighty percent of the characters were pictographic drawings, they were quite sufficient for writing and had special pronunciations. The inscriptions on bones and tortoise shells in the Shang dynasty, from about the 16th to 11th century B.C., show characters representing the social classes at the time, including wang (monarchs), chen (officials under a feudal ruler), mu (shepherds), nu (slaves), and yi (tribesmen). There were also words that related to dress and personal adornments, such as as yi (clothing), lu (shoes), huang shang (skirts), and mei (sleeves). Ornaments of varying value, like jade pendants, jade rings, earrings, necklaces, combs, silk fabrics, burlaps, and copper decorations, have been found on excavated statues. Valuable, exquisite items belonged to the aristocrats exclusively, not slaves or tribesmen. With the developments and advances made regarding textiles, articles of clothing for different functions began to appear, such as dresses, skirts, crowns, footwear, hats, and stockings. Costume styles evolved from simple and practical to ornamental. This is reflected in the invention of “twelve designs of symbols.” Looking at the patterns and styles of clothes in history books such as The Rites of the Zhou, Book of Rites and Rites, you can see that Chinese clothing evolved from nothing to very simple and functional styles, and then to styles that were quite complex. During the Ying Shang period, the etiquette, music, rituals, and clothing showed no evidence of any distinction among different social classes. Starting in the Western Zhou dynasty, however, class distinction became apparent, as evident in the differences in clothing and personal adornment. More and more variety in clothing also appeared, depending on the occasion. For example, paying respects to the gods and making obeisance to heaven and earth at the palac

e temples required special clothing. Special clothes were worn for grand ceremonies. There were army uniforms, wedding ceremony outfits, bereavement clothes, and so on. Clothing at the time was still made in accordance with old systems and thus had dark tops and yellow bottoms, but official garb included four-inch-wide sashes made from silk or leather that were worn over the lapels. Other costumes included jade adornments on the waist belt linked together with silk ribbons. In addition, clothing of different colours indicated different social classes. During the Warring States, the costume of the seven dukedoms of Qi, Chu, Yan, Han, Zhao, Wei and Qin, each developed changes accordingly. The so-called “skirt around the front of the body" style actually referred to loose-cut cloth with wide rims that was wrapped around the lower body. The ancient designers wrapped the cloth ingeniously from the front of the upper body to the back, making full use of horizontal and diagonal lines to complement space and achieve both quietude in motion and motion in quietude. Materials were light and thin, and stiffer brocade was used to embroider the borders with wavy patterns that reflected the wisdom and intellect of the designers. 

The Boxer Rebellion

It's been awhile since I posted a blog for the dudes, so I figured I'd tackle a subject that has been on my mind as of late. Your underwears. [Yes, I tacked an s at the tail end of underwear because although the word isn't grammatically correct, it sounds way funnier.]

Often overlooked, the upkeep of your underwears is very important. Here are a few tips to keep in mind:

1. Throw your underwears out when they have holes in them. When your boxers, briefs, or a combination thereof have holes in the crotch, it is the equivalent of our worst granny panties. Not sexy.

2. Fruit of the Loom tightie whities remind us of the underwears you were forced to wear as little boys.

3. Men's thong underwears are cool, but only if you like other dudes. Straight dudes don't care about visible panty lines.

4. We appreciate it when you wear sexy underwears, just as much as you love it when we do.

With that said, may I present jac5, the newly launched luxury men's underwear brand that delivers comfort, style, a sense of humor, and sex appeal which all work together to create the perfect package.

Inspired by his 5 fiesty Jack Russel terriers, jac5 founder Jim Christopher offers three distinct collections of underwears, guaranteed to suit the style of any feisty fella: The Loyal collection is casually cool enough for every day.Supersmart is designed for suiting up for success, and the Barking Mad collection is colorful, stylish and just a tad bit quirky. Trust me boys, if we see a hint of these jac5 underwears peeking out of the waistband of your jeans, we'll be more than impressed. You'll be an alpha dog in our eyes.

I'm a fan of boxer shorts myself, but am also doggone crazy about the basic crewneck tees and the Barry briefs that I wish came in chick sizes but without the crotch pouch. I don't need that.

It's a dog eat dog world out there, don't let bad underwears ruin it for you.

Best Dressed AMA's 2011

If you didn't catch the American Music Awards this past weekend, here is my Red Carpet recap of my flat out favorite looks that all of the starlets and songstresses rocked, as well as the gowns that fell flat, musical pun intended.

Selena Gomez is on a red carpet roll. Her bf's alleged baby mama dropped her allegations that Justin Beiber fathered her baby and Selena celebrated by standing by her man on the red carpet in a slinky, silky, and in a word Selenasational Giorgio Armani gown featuring a halter neckline, low open back, ruched bodice and perfect length train.

Taylor Swift not only swept up the Best Artist Award, (and every other award she was up for, Kanye West interruption free) but she also tripped the night fantastic in a sparkly, sequined, strapless and simply stunning Reem Acra gown paired with Jimmy Choo heels, intended for musical royalty. Oh can't you seeee, that dress belongs with meeeeee. Seriously Taylor. It belongs with me.

With the good comes the bad. I know you're all expecting me to place Nicki Minaj at the top of my Worst Dressed list, but here's the deal. Now homegirl is just expected to make weird fashion statements, and I don't like to do anything that's expected. Here are my least favorite AMA looks worn by a duo of older stars who should just plain know better.

If You Don't Want To Destroy My Sweater

I love sweater season. Who doesn't love feeling all bundled up under the coziest of cashmere, with a chill in the air, a blush in the cheeks and a Christmas carol in the heart?

There is, however, one obstacle that always threatens to rain on my sweater season parade. When my sweaters suffer from a bad case of the pills.

I'm not ashamed, it happens to us all. You remove your most beloved turtlenecks, pullovers, cardis and cablenits from storage, only to find that they've been plagued with jagged little pills - those totally stupid little fiber ball build ups that multiply on your warm and wooly wearables. I destroyed many a sweater with my unsuccessful do-it-yourself razor pill removal techniques, and eventually came to terms with the fact that pilling was the herpes of winterwear. No matter what you did, those bumps would keep coming back. Until now.

The Hollywood Sweater Saver is a simple and cost-efficient solution to get rid of those pesky pill monster flare ups for good. Simply skim the sweater saving stone across your infected fabric, and watch those pathetic pills disappear with a poof. Use it on sweaters, coats, blankets, fleece and virtually any place where those pills pop up.

Top 10 Stocking Stuffers for Your Chick

 Short and I hope sweet, Here are the top 10 things that I believe most women want to find in their Christmas stockings.

You're welcome.

10. Booze. Mini airplane bottles will do.

9. Sunglasses. Especially oversized ones that will mask our hungover eyes after we toss back our miniature bottles of booze.

8. Panties. A little something naughty that rewards us for being nice. Fyi, Hanky Panky panties come rolled up in the perfect stocking sized package.

7. A Toy. Not that kind of toy. A little desktop figurine, novelty keychain or something cute that will remind us of Christmastime as a kid, when a set of jacks would totally rock our world.

6. Stockings. Here's a novel idea. Fill our stockings with stockings. It's clever, unexpected, and kind of old school. Extra credit: Make sure your sexy hosiery of choice matches and/or complements your #8 stuffers of choice.

5. Tickets. Here's the thing - to an event we dig, i.e. a concert, movie, Disney on Ice. Don't splurge on tickets to Superbowl XLVI if the girl doesn't like football. Put them in your own stocking.

4. Gift card(s) to our favorite store(s). Don't say "I don't know what store(s) she likes". You're her boyfriend/husband/unlabeled partner in life. You should know this stuff by now.

3. A Love Note. Don't ever underestimate the value of a good love letter. Feel free to get all romantical. Writing Merry Christmas, yo isn't good enough.

2. Perfume. Don't get a super heavy bottle. Her stocking might fall, shatter, and she'll have a lot of gifts that smell good but are soaked. Many popular fragrances today are available in skinny, lightweight rollerball form. Get that.

1. Jewelry. As long as it ain't from a gumball machine, she'll be happy.

Trendy & fun clothing, accessories and décor for teens, juniors and young ladies

They have the latest in teen clothes and room décor! From bedding for college dorm rooms to a cute teen swimsuit, dELiA*s, will have exactly what you want! Whether you need vintage tees, trendy room decorations, or a pair of destroyed jeans, when other teen clothing stores leave you yawning, dELiA*s s will deliver! 

Tops are always hot at dELiA*s in trendy crochet or perfect fall thermals. Find cardigans, graphic tees and plaids, all with just the right fashion sense for back-to-school. Pair your shirts with low-rise skinny jeans or patch flare jeans to look super cool! Find capris, twills and leggings, too. Then, complete your look with sandals, sneakers or flats to be on-the-go all day. dELiA*s also has the hottest trends in boots, from tall suede to trendy plaid hobbits. Accessories, cute dresses and jackets are always easy to find at dELiA*s, your problem will be deciding which cool style you like best! 
Roomwares in checks, paisley and funky graphics are the perfect decorating accessory to start your dream room make-over. Find pillow shams, bedskirts and curtains, even cushy rugs to pamper your toes. And when you’re on the go, grab a sleeping bag in bright turquoise and animal print. Pack dELiA*s funky and fun nail polish colors and treat your friends to a mix-and-match manicure party!

Inca Clothing

Clothing was an important aspect in Inca society. Just looking at the dress of a person, status of that person in that society can be readily perceived. Though their costume initially was typical of that of all the Andean and coastal peoples, afterward they excelled on it. Archaeologist collected full information on Inca clothing as in imperial days it was enforced on the conquered populations. Grave finds and paints especially on pottery vessels provide enormous information on Inca costume.

General Trends

Naturally more and warmer clothing was worn in the highlands than on the coast. In the earliest periods the inhabitants of the former region had only wool, the latter only had cotton, but at a very early time trade made both materials available everywhere. These textile fibers, wool from the highlands and cotton from the coast- especially the former- were practically state monopolies and were regularly distributed to the people. Clothing everywhere consisted of woven or knitted textiles, and these were always worn whole, never cut or tailored; they were held together by large metal pins. The garments of the common people were of rather coarse textiles.

Inca Emperor.

Sapa Inca wore each cloth for only once. Afterwards the worn clothes were burnt. So you know, they need to supply lots of cloth for Sapa Inca. As you know "chosen women" were the ones who prepared clothes for Sapa Inca. So they had to remain busy on this purpose. Only the Inca could wear a headdress with his special fringe of gold and feathers. His headdress was of different kind: round his head was wreathed a turban of many colored folds, called the llautu, with a tasseled fringe, like that worn by the prince, but of a scarlet color, while two feathers of a rare and curious bird, called the coraquenque, placed upright in it, were the distinguishing insignia of royalty. His coat was covered with jewels and pieces of turquoise. Sapa Inca wore gold and jewelries on different parts of his body. He wore heavy gold shoulder pads and heavy gold bracelets and earrings. His earrings were so heavy that they pulled his earlobes down until they rested on his shoulder pads. His shoes were made of leather and fur. He wore a royal shield and a royal badge. The shield on his chest was engraved with a picture of the sun god and the badge was made of hummingbird feathers, framed with gold.

HMRC seizing assets of late paying businesses

A North West accountancy firm has warned small business owners that they should tighten their credit control management, as it has emerged that HMRC is increasingly resorting to asset seizures to tackle late paying businesses.

MD of Mitchell Charlesworth, David Darlington, said the number of occasions when HMRC has used its powers of distraint to seize the assets of late payers – overwhelming businesses – rose to more than 7000 in the last financial year, up from nearly 4,900 the previous year and 1,675 in the year before.

HMRC adopting a more aggressive approach

“These statistics show a far more aggressive attitude from HMRC and we do urge firms to tread with care,” he said. “HMRC is under greater pressure to raise cash as the Government seeks to make cuts and maximise tax revenue. If firms are worried about cash flow, and managing their relationship with HMRC, we advise taking professional advice at the earliest opportunity. Failure to get cash flow right, and failure to pay tax bills on time, could well result in your assets being seized. This could prove extremely disruptive and damaging to any business.”

Review your credit control management

Mr Darlington also advised small firms concerned about paying tax on time to review their credit control procedures.

“In terms of credit control there are a number of actions a firm can make to ensure cash flow is strong,” he said. “If HMRC is going to chase you harder and seize your assets then you need to chase your invoices harder. We advise checking the credit rating on all new and existing clients and customers to assess their health and performance. We then advise asking all clients to pay by standing order, or direct debit, rather than cheque so you have a nailed down payment date which cannot be pushed back. If a customer refuses to do this make clear what your payment terms are and consider suspending work or charging interest until payment is made.”

Set in place late payment procedures

Mr Darlington said it is further wise to have a set procedure for chasing payment as soon as the invoice has been sent.

“Check immediately with the customer it has received your invoice and ask when you can expect payment,” he said. “This lets them know you are on the case and are alert to any potential problems. It is critical that the client is aware that you are prepared to chase payment hard. That way they are more likely to pay your invoice before invoices which are not being chased.”

Small Business Administration

The Small Business Administration (SBA) contributes to the President’s economic agenda by helping entrepreneurs start, sustain, and grow small businesses and create jobs. SBA also helps families and businesses recover from physical disasters. The 2005 Budget for SBA supports small businesses with an increase in the availability of government-guaranteed capital, technical assistance to raise small businesses’ competitiveness, and improved contracting opportunities to sell products and services to the Federal Government. SBA is also improving customer service and administering programs more efficiently by implementing the President’s Management Agenda. Assistance for small businesses is not limited to SBA’s technical assistance and credit programs. Additional support is provided under the bipartisan tax relief enacted over the last three years. As a result, 23 million small business owners have benefited from lower marginal income tax rates and an increase in depreciation deductions for qualified investments